Domaine des Comtes Lafon
True to nature Burgundy
The Domaine des Comtes Lafon, situated in the prestigious vineyards of the Côte de Beaune in Burgundy, has left an indelible mark on the history of wine. This vineyard, encompassing various appellations in the region, has evolved into a name synonymous with excellence and boasts a history dating back to the early 20th century. However, it barely survived the passing of its founder, Jules Lafon.
Founder Jules Lafon
Jules Lafon, the founder of the estate in Burgundy, had no apparent connection to the wine world at his birth in Tarn-et-Garonne in Southwest France. He embarked on a legal career and, at the age of 23 in 1887, found himself at the Administration of Domain Registration and Tax Stamps in Dijon. While it may seem conducive to a calm existence, nothing could be further from the truth.
With a legal practice underway, Jules developed a new passion when he married Marie Boch in 1894, the daughter of a wine merchant in Meursault. The Boch family owned several Meursault vineyards, including well-known ones in Monthélie, Meursault 'Clos de la Barre,' and Meursault 'En la Barre,' as well as premier crus in Volnay.
Jules, displaying entrepreneurial spirit and foresight, acquired additional wine parcels. Notable plots included Le Montrachet Grand Cru, Meursault 1er Crus 'Les Perrières', 'Les Charmes', and 'Les Genevrières', and Volnay 1er Crus 'Santenots' and 'Clos des Chênes'.
His support for the Catholic Church during a period of societal change in France earned him such appreciation that, in 1918, he was granted the title of 'papal count', giving birth to the Domaine 'Comte Lafon'.
The young count served the village and was elected mayor in 1923, revitalizing the age-old tradition of celebrating the end of the harvest with a lunch (the 'Paulée'). This tradition is still cherished today.
In 1931, not only did Jules retire from his legal practice but continued his involvement in wine. By then, Jules was 67. When he passed away in 1940, the estate passed into the hands of his sons, Pierre and Henri.
Family Business
With two successors, the future of the estate seemed secure. Unfortunately, Pierre passed away four years after his father, sparking a 12-year-long dispute until 1956 over the inheritance between Pierre's son René and Henri. Henri wanted to sell the estate, while René aimed to continue the business.
While the conflict unfolded, the vineyards needed maintenance, and a portion was leased until the late 1980s.
René managed to preserve the estate for the family, initiated the replanting of a part of the vineyards, and began on-site bottling.
The wine bug also infected René's son Dominique, who took over in 1984 (initially with his brother Bruno), created his first vintage, and gradually stopped leasing land, a feat achieved by 1993. The estate then covered almost 14 hectares.
Changes
Dominique demonstrated that his father's struggle was not in vain and implemented significant changes that propelled the estate to great heights.
In 1995, Comte Lafon transitioned to organic viticulture, followed by an even stricter shift to biodynamic farming in 1998. The new policies benefited both the wine and the future of the company through sustainable land use. Although some claim that biodynamically grown vines develop resistance to diseases, Lafon finds little evidence supporting that assertion.
The introduction of Diam corks, reduced bâtonnage, fewer new barrels, and the mass storage of wines in stainless steel tanks, sur lie, in anaerobic conditions for about three months before bottling, exemplify a carefully balanced approach. This method imparts reductive characteristics to the wine after a prolonged phase of micro-oxidation in the barrels, preserving the distinctive flavours and aromas.
These subtle adjustments bear witness to the estate's ongoing pursuit of excellence of their exceptional wines.
Future
While Dominique still keeps a watchful eye on production today, an enthusiastic new generation is already active in the family business, covering 17.4 hectares. Since 2019, Dominique's daughter Léa and, since 2020, cousin Pierre Lafon have joined the estate. With their arrival, the extensive range of Meursaults expanded in 2011 with two Premiers Crus: 'Les Bouchères' and 'Porusots'.
At the Auction
The Domaine des Comtes Lafon, situated in the prestigious vineyards of the Côte de Beaune in Burgundy, has left an indelible mark on the history of wine. This vineyard, encompassing various appellations in the region, has evolved into a name synonymous with excellence and boasts a history dating back to the early 20th century. However, it barely survived the passing of its founder, Jules Lafon.
Founder Jules Lafon
Jules Lafon, the founder of the estate in Burgundy, had no apparent connection to the wine world at his birth in Tarn-et-Garonne in Southwest France. He embarked on a legal career and, at the age of 23 in 1887, found himself at the Administration of Domain Registration and Tax Stamps in Dijon. While it may seem conducive to a calm existence, nothing could be further from the truth.
With a legal practice underway, Jules developed a new passion when he married Marie Boch in 1894, the daughter of a wine merchant in Meursault. The Boch family owned several Meursault vineyards, including well-known ones in Monthélie, Meursault 'Clos de la Barre,' and Meursault 'En la Barre,' as well as premier crus in Volnay.
Jules, displaying entrepreneurial spirit and foresight, acquired additional wine parcels. Notable plots included Le Montrachet Grand Cru, Meursault 1er Crus 'Les Perrières', 'Les Charmes', and 'Les Genevrières', and Volnay 1er Crus 'Santenots' and 'Clos des Chênes'.
His support for the Catholic Church during a period of societal change in France earned him such appreciation that, in 1918, he was granted the title of 'papal count', giving birth to the Domaine 'Comte Lafon'.
The young count served the village and was elected mayor in 1923, revitalizing the age-old tradition of celebrating the end of the harvest with a lunch (the 'Paulée'). This tradition is still cherished today.
In 1931, not only did Jules retire from his legal practice but continued his involvement in wine. By then, Jules was 67. When he passed away in 1940, the estate passed into the hands of his sons, Pierre and Henri.
Family Business
With two successors, the future of the estate seemed secure. Unfortunately, Pierre passed away four years after his father, sparking a 12-year-long dispute until 1956 over the inheritance between Pierre's son René and Henri. Henri wanted to sell the estate, while René aimed to continue the business.
While the conflict unfolded, the vineyards needed maintenance, and a portion was leased until the late 1980s.
René managed to preserve the estate for the family, initiated the replanting of a part of the vineyards, and began on-site bottling.
The wine bug also infected René's son Dominique, who took over in 1984 (initially with his brother Bruno), created his first vintage, and gradually stopped leasing land, a feat achieved by 1993. The estate then covered almost 14 hectares.
Changes
Dominique demonstrated that his father's struggle was not in vain and implemented significant changes that propelled the estate to great heights.
In 1995, Comte Lafon transitioned to organic viticulture, followed by an even stricter shift to biodynamic farming in 1998. The new policies benefited both the wine and the future of the company through sustainable land use. Although some claim that biodynamically grown vines develop resistance to diseases, Lafon finds little evidence supporting that assertion.
The introduction of Diam corks, reduced bâtonnage, fewer new barrels, and the mass storage of wines in stainless steel tanks, sur lie, in anaerobic conditions for about three months before bottling, exemplify a carefully balanced approach. This method imparts reductive characteristics to the wine after a prolonged phase of micro-oxidation in the barrels, preserving the distinctive flavours and aromas.
These subtle adjustments bear witness to the estate's ongoing pursuit of excellence of their exceptional wines.
Future
While Dominique still keeps a watchful eye on production today, an enthusiastic new generation is already active in the family business, covering 17.4 hectares. Since 2019, Dominique's daughter Léa and, since 2020, cousin Pierre Lafon have joined the estate. With their arrival, the extensive range of Meursaults expanded in 2011 with two Premiers Crus: 'Les Bouchères' and 'Porusots'.
At the Auction
- Lots 2707-2718: An impressive array of the red wines from Domaine des Comtes Lafon, including the Volnay 'Santenots du Milieu' & Volnay ‘Champans’.
- Lots 3161-3201: The white wines made by the Domaine, including 'Clos de la Barre', 'Porusots', 'Goutte d’Or', 'Charmes' and 'Perrières' from Meursault and culminating in the 1999 Montrachet, lot 3201.